The hotel ‘Dogana Vecchia’ in Torino is still proud of the night W. A. Mozart once spent in this house. Used to all the Mozart buzz in Salzburg, I felt immediately familiar with this place. And at night, when the tourist chatter finally subsided, the room still had some serenity, as if some Mozart tunes were still echoing, inaudible for our ears but present in the walls. Romantic…